Sonntag, 26. Dezember 2010

flight Puebla-Canjun


if you ever need to fly within Mexico go on to www.volaris.com.mx...they have excellent service and good prices......the only problem is that you are only allowed 15 kg per person....and with all the diving gear that can be tight........
but instead of driving 1600km a flight of 2 hours is much more preferable...

luggage

what a treat! Dominik offered us to store our luggage at his place which of course we gladly accepted .....and he is living in a very nice area.....typical expat place I would say ....fenced and in a ghetto but very nice and spaceous .....and now we travel lite....what a joy.....

the after summit breakfast

.....where would you celebrate your summiting??????
and where would I probably do it?????


yes right-we went to Starbucks ......
we took the early morning bus to Puebla (instead of 650 pesos for a taxi this time we took the public bus and spent 45 pesos each...), went directly to Starbucks and are feasting here.....chai, cheesecake, cheese sandwich all at once...and it tastes sooooo good!
welcome back to civilisation!

back to Tlachichuca

how wondeful to be back and have a shower....all the rest I do not care but the first shower in days is just a treat......( and dont you ask me how dark the water from my socks has been.....;-)

welcome back

Por was just smiling when he saw us again and confessed that he was checking on us all the time....." you were really really fast..." I could see you on the glacier far too early .....and now we have to wait for the car as they as well did not think you will be down at 10.30......hihihihi...never ever underestimate me.....
and please give me some food I am starving....(all of this in Spanish of course....)
hell, I am really exhausted but in a good way...I feel I have been doing something and my body is happy and positively tired....
yes I can...again and again and again.....thank you body for helping me and supporting me fulfill my dreams I am really really grateful of your work and efforts....

thank you Fernando!

he really is a good guide...he let me up the best way ....it was the most strenuous way - directly up the glacier....but the most efficient way....
thank you for this wonderful and unique experience!

the descent

and just like planned as soon as we came out of the labirinth Thomas joined us....he went up to 4700m .....congratulations!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! this is the highest he ever went ....and he even tried his new crampons......it was a real pleasure seeing him at the beginning of the moraines....and we made our way down to the hut together...
and once again I could not believe whicch way I did justsome hours ago....as it was of course dark I did not realize how shitty the way up there to the glacier really was and only realized it now.....
here are the pics to make you understand why I hate stones and moraines...and why I simply love glaciers and walking with crampons....

record time

hihihihi only later when we were safely back to the hut had Fernando told me that this was his record time this year......and then he fell back asleep........hihihihi.....not the first guide I "used totally"......
but honestly now I need to confess that I liked to overtake the ironmen who where so full of words and praie of themselves and then I was passing them as early as in the labirinth and was again passing them on our way back down when they still where not even half way up the glacier.....boys dont talk before you are sure you can do it!

impressions of the summit

still to come.....

yes I can

5h 45 min and I was on the summit......the sun shining in all directions no wind and a feeling which cannot be described.......what a day what a mountain what a thrill to be on top of it all......
speechless I took in the wonders of nature around me.......once again I overcame every physical limit.......lack of oxgygene, cold, wind, night, ......whatever ...and I made it!!!!!!!!!!

summit day

so now it is 2 o clock...I could not sleep after midnight anyway as the others were thinking they were alone in the hut and waking everyone up anyhow...no matter if they wanted to get up tonight or not....
so after they all left we had our peanut butter sandwich...my favourite food before summiting...this or a noodle soup....and yes you can really eat in the middle of the night...well at least I can...and 2 litres of tea......and now we are ready to take off...wish me good luck....

akklimatization hike

as it is still early we did some meters up to tue labirinth....I am very confident that I will summit...I dont feel the height at all and I am feeling really strong....
and - what a nice change....my guide is not a macho...well he is by behaviour but so far he has not said anything which would be negative .....and he seems to be really good.....
and knows the mountain well.....
and he has a cool toy...which of course was totally to Thomas liking.......
he has a little tool where you put in your forefinger and the thing shows you your heartrate and the saturation with oxygene.....very useful....
my heartrate is very low but my saturation of oxygene is the same than thomas...so everything over 80 in this height is okay and we both have 88.....on sealevel you have 95...not too bad is it? Fernando himself has 93...and our trekking guide and cook Por he has 94....amazing!

by the way Servimont the agency I was booking this trip are real Halsabschneider .... I have never ever paid so much money for 3 days on a mountain...but as they do have a monopole they can charge whatever they want.....my 2 weeks trip to Mount Everest basecamp was way cheaper than the 3 days here...I dont allow myself to think about that......it would piss me off and I definitely want a positive mountain experience and I am sure it will be worth it once I am on the summit...

la Pietra Grande 4260m

that was a nice walk....2 hours and we are already up there.....so after we had lunch- I am sooo hungry all the time....it is threatening....Thomas is not eating anything and the higher we climb the hungrier I get.......I could eat all the time....
there are at least 10 other climbers....all of them very much "show offs".....they like to play ironmen here......how wonderful how sporty how good they are......we will see tonight if they are really that good or if they are just "Gockels".....I hate this behaviour.....and try to blend it out......

second day

after a "not so much sleep night" meaning I did not sleep at all- partially because it was so cold partially because I needed to get out of the tent more than once......
I need to climb more mountains to get again used to that!

and when it finally was time to get up we immediately lit a fire again....and then when the sun was coming up it was all of a sudden very warm again.....

today we will be walking up to the refugio la Pietra Grande on 4260m......and then tonight at 2 am Fernando my guide and myself will summit......very much looking forward to the climb....cant wait it....this stupid hiking is nothing considering having crampons on your feet and walk up a glacier to stand on top of a (middle) high mountain......

fucking cold

you have NO idea how cold it can be in this height...I underestimated it myself.....we had dinner next to a fogata....which means lagerfeuer and it was utterly necessary.....it was so fucking cold .......
but that was nothing to how cold it was in the night....... (I should have brought my Carinthia sleeping bag.....)

first day

today we drove up to 3500m where we put up camp......the tent is okay and is built for 4 people....I do not know how the calculate or measure it but Thomas and myself fit in just okay...I would never ever want to spend the night in such a tent with 3 other people!!!
now as the tent is all set up we will go for a day hike to further our akklimatisation.....and the mountain looks already so tempting to me!

Sonntag, 19. Dezember 2010

Pico de Orizaba-the route

what we will do is go up to 3500 m today....put up camp and go for a day hike....
then tomorrow we go up to 4200m and sleep in Pietra grande (in a hut...where it is supposed to already be really really cold)
and on day 3 we will attempt to summit to 5760m in the nighttime and with temperatures as low as -15 degrees C without wind....with wind it will be much much colder....

Servimont


so and here we are now...with the only company doing the Pico de Orizaba......and as usual they do negotiate about the prices all the time...although I have been in touch with them for weeks and they sent me various prices for different packages....today when we arrived and talked about the programme the pricing again was different...that is really the only annoyance if you do expeditions abroad....they always give me the impression they rip me off....and these expeditions are never a bargain anyway...(except if you go to Peru and know Jorge....)
so after some back and forth discussions everyting is now settled and we will start with our trip tomorrow.....HURRAH!
today we again do some acclimatization around this place and prepare our gear and enjoy lovely views to the vulcano....

www.servimont.com.mx

Tlachlicuca

benvenidos a Tlachlicuca....a place that only exists because it is the base for expeditions to the highest mountain in Mexico....
what a kaff....

back to Puebla

After finally having found the right bus…it is amazing ….. in Mexico everyone can open a bus company so you have a thousand different bus companies …and there is a bus to Puebla every 10 min ….
So we settled into our luxury bus and drove back to the cold…..
Which we could already feel when we got off the bus at exactly 5.45…..wow the bus really was on time…..
And then by taxi- they really have a good system here…you tell the person in the taxi booth where you want to go, then you get a boleto and with this you go out to the taxi driver…and he takes you to the place you want to go to….
And we went once again to our hotel in the historic center….but although I told them we were coming at this odd hour nobody opened and the whole hotel was deep asleep, and nobody answered the telephone neither….
So some Mexican guys from the newspaper helped us scream and kick the door…no way….
But after some trials at least the night receptionist answered the phone….
But then nobody knew where our backbags were…..
So he left for a search and – just imagine he called his boss to ask him where the staff put the backbags…..incredible!
And then he phoned for a taxi to Tlachlilucha ……1200 pesos…double the price we were given on the street…so the night receptionist went to the main square to look for a taxi..and came back with one who took us there for 650 pesos….what a difference isn’t it?

cinema again

Again we have been to the cinema (as we had time before our night bus back to Puebla left at 23.45)
And we had 2 choices- machete – a wild senseless blood film or a love film with Jennifer Aniston…..which I voted for knowing up front that it will probably be a stupid film….
And it was…..nice, lovely, naïve and romantic but a little dull…….so now my reputation for picking bad films is set…….but what can I do ? at least you go out of the cinema still or again believing in real love …..isnt that something? It is at least in my eyes much better to have had 1,5 hours of nice and positive feelings instead of being freaked out and believing the world is all bad…..

Freitag, 17. Dezember 2010

el snorkel

as we needed to run out of our hotel this morning- Maturaclasses invade Acapulco on weekends...so we were literally swamped out of bed by loud crap music and drunken teenagers and yes we do get old....if at least the music had been good......so we immediately escaped to the beach.......what a good idea....except that the youngsters are everywhere on weekends.....
thank god we reserved a snorkel trip today ....and guess what....we were the only customers so we had all the diving boat to ourselves and went to La Roqueta.....and it was just marvellous......we saw so many colourful fish.....and the sightseeing snorkelling again was awesome....(but I still prefer my mountains....to be honest)

our favourite restaurant


there is a restaurant chain here in Acapulco(and probably somewhere as well) which I really really love...100% natural...and the name tells it all....
everything there is organic and non fat and non chemical and stuff......and the meals are so damm yummy....I could just eat everything off the menu....(except the meat ones of course)
breakfast, lunch and dinner...we tried it all although I am as you very well know not a person going to the same restaurant over and over again....(except for my beloved starbucks of course) but THIS is just soooo different.....

check this out....

http://www.100natural.com.mx/


maybe I open one of these restaurants when I am back home? and I definitely would be my best customer....

sunset at Pie de la Cuesta


all the sunsets we have been watching since our arrival in Acapulco were spectacular....(we have enjoyed them in a beach bar of course) but yesterday´s sunset was even more wonderful...we went to the sunset beach to the Pie de la Cuesta or not quite as we "fell" into the Mexican way of celebrating sunset....the El Mirador on a lookout over the beach......real Mexican Musica en vivo, real mexican food an a lot of Mexicans drinking Corona and dancing...and yes it was like in a movie but they really are a happy merengue dancing corona drinking crowd.....(and of course prices where a third of where we till now went....)
what a pleasure to be part of that
and the food, and the music and the dancing...with this music you just cannot sit still...

La Caleta


if you one day go to Acapulco go to Caleta beach.....quiet, little bay with a lot of Mexicans not too touristy and one of the finest diving schools in the bay....SDA (Swiss Diving Association) located in the Hotel Caleta.......
but still my favorite hotel there is Hotel Boca Chica.....a unique location with the Isla Roqueta right in front of you.....this is paradise here (not including places with mountains of course, but for a beach setting it is)

Parasailing


yes I did it and it was so much fun!
it was like floating in the wind.....and the parasail reacts so quick to every move you make......this definitely has been and will stay a highlight of this trip for me....
AWESOME!

the main attraction in Acapulco


wow wow wow.....I had at least 6 heart attacks tonight...
we went to watch the famous cliff springers of Acapulco....(the calvadadores.....) and they took all the thrills out of me......their performance is just incredible and I was fearing for them with each jump.......


they jump 36 m into the void......it just freaks the hell out of me! and the youngest one is about 12 years old.....(and no women ....I wonder why...)

history:
La Quebrada (Spanish for "gulch" or "ravine") is one of the most famous tourist attractions in Acapulco, Mexico. Divers entertain tourists by jumping off the 45 meter (148 ft) high cliff. The divers must calculate the right moment to jump to catch an incoming wave and avoid serious injury or death. Occasionally jumpers dive with a torch. Most of the divers come from the family of Quebrada divers. Although cliff diving at La Quebrada had taken place for many years, it was not until 1934 that the La Quebrada Cliff Divers was formed.

RED


and what do you do in the evenings when you just cant stand another pina colada anymore and the last thing you want to do is eat?
yeah right...go to the cinema with a bunch of mexicans......and in lack of really good films in original language (unfortunately Thomas refused to go to Rapunzel neu verföhnt in Spanish.....;-)) with Spanish subtitels I was making a big mistake.....I was watching RED.......and yes of course I had bad dreams....and we had a serious discussion no not really I was giving a hot lecture of how bad films like that are for teenagers and how immune they get to violence and how much such films facilitate crime.......but I only was laughed at....but I still believe that no one needs films like this.....AND I definitely still prefer my hollywood or bollywood happy end love stories or historic films or other films which make the world seem to be the best place to be....

www.redthemovie.com

and in my opinion the stars of the movies could have really garanteed an excellent performance....Bruce Willis, Morgan Freeman, Helen Mirren, John Malkovic.......but the story really is a little lame and a little too brutal for me....
but still it was exciting to be in a cinema in Acapulco...

beach bars

I have already got one big insight...

.....Mexicans must be deaf.....everything is much louder here.....the traffice, the honking, the videos in the long distance busses and of course the music at the beach bars......
but with enough Pina Colada (you can also have it natural ...which means no alcohol....and this is definitely much much wiser...)

Beach life


what a difference..yesterday we still were climbing a mountain and had a hard time getting enough oxygene and today immediately after arrival we had our first pina colada and ceviche (fresh fish with lemon and vinegar served on tacos......yummy)

.......much much hotter here and the landscape looks different too..no stones and no going up...only sun and palm trees and white sands as far as you can see.....

Mittwoch, 15. Dezember 2010

Acapulco


and as the next mountain can only be climbed from Dec 18th onwards we or better I quickly had an alternative......
I was on the internet the whole night and at 6 am I woke Thomas....do you want to go to Acapulco?
a sleepy voice answered "good idea......when?"....."the next bus leaves at 7.30 am." "and how late is it now"...."6am..."....."so we should get up...."
and you ask me if this isnt the perfect match for me......go figure"
and yes- I had bus tickets, a taxi to the bus station, the preferred row for Thomas and a wonderful cheap hotel at the beach.....
isnt this great....still cant believe that all my stupid ideas are met with such enthusiasm......and that our travels are so varied and intense.....and now we continue to enjoy Acapulco....



and now 6 hours later we are sitting on the beach in Acapulco enjoying our first Pina Colada......

some impressions of Malinche

having troubles saving my pics to the computer...so pics to come soon I hope

Summited

after 3,5 hours and a lot of water I was on top of this d.... mountain...it is as zaeh as Mount Meru...you think you have reached the top but still there is more stones and more stones.....and it still goes up and up and up...and then..when you yourself dont believe in La Cima anymore it is there....you cannot believe it......you are looking around .....oh yes this should be it....there is nothing higher around you.....and the plateau looks like a summit....
YES! I made it! joy, happyness and a deep inner smile suddenly enlightens me....yes this is why I do all of this...to be - for some minutes one with nature and the mountains and just me.....nothing else just pure human being....

Montag, 13. Dezember 2010

Malinche 4461 m


and today we climb our first high mountain...after having been on 3400 m yesterday we attempt the summit of Malinche today which is 4461 m high.....

Puebla by night




Dec 12th the processions


every mexican needs to participate once in his life time in a procession for the virgen de Guadaloupe....so you can imagine the chaos and the traffic going to the major catedral dedicated to the virgen of Guadeloupe in Mexico city...for those who do not want to participat there.....make your own procession whereever you have a church dedicated to the virgen of Guadeloupe...like in Puebla.....
all the city was closed and thousands of cars where decorated for and with the virgen....
and why do the mexicans celebrate this virgen above all....

simple answer by Dominiks wife: she was the only one who appeared in Mexico...

and she on top is the patrona de Mexico....
thats called logic....

impressions of the volcanoes


on top of Paso de Cortez you have wonderful views of the two volcanoes Popo and Izta...
or for those of you brave enough to pronounce the whole names:
Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl.....both over 5200 m high...
this one you can climb:


but Popo is closed as it could erupt every second.....so for safety reasons they closed it after the last eruption in 1994....
and at the moment there is no snow on Popocatepetl.....

Paso de Cortez 3400m

and finally we went closer and closer to the volcanoes.....
the ride to the Paso de Cortez is like an adventure but when you have finally arrived there it was well worth all the pain.....


Tlachihualtepetl



and here some facts about the pyramide of Cholula which is called Tlachihualtepetl (and exactly cannot be pronouced without much practice)

and dont forget this pyramide is covered by earth and grass and is now used as a fundament of a Wahlfahrtskirche .....

what is this pyramid all about:
Genau wie bei den meisten indianischen Tempeln auf dem amerikanischen Kontinent ist der ursprüngliche Name des Bauwerkes nicht mehr bekannt. In Mexiko ist die Pyramide als „Gran Pirámide de Cholula“ bekannt, was zur deutschen Ãœbersetzung „große Pyramide von Cholula“ und dem im englischen Sprachraum benutzten „Great Pyramid of Cholula“ führt. Weitere geläufige Namen sind: Tlachihualtepetl (der Berg von ungebrannten Ziegeln) und Teocalli (Haus der Götter), wobei letztere für viele Pyramiden in Mexiko verwendet wird.
Das vorhispanische Bauwerk hat ein Volumen von etwa 4,45 Mio. Kubikmetern mit einer Grundfläche von 450 x 450 m. Allerdings ist es mit der jetzigen Höhe von 66 m deutlich kleiner als die Cheops-Pyramide in Ägypten und auch 4 m niedriger als die Sonnenpyramide in Teotihuacán. Die Ausgrabungen zeigen jedoch, dass sie früher höher gewesen sein muss. Die oberste der vier Plattformen, auf der jetzt eine Kirche steht, ist sehr groß und auch die untersten Stufen liegen noch einige Meter unter dem heutigen Erdboden.

Forschung:
Die Pyramide wird schon seit 1917 wissenschaftlich erforscht. Der in der Nähe gefundene 10 Tonnen schwere Hauptaltar deutet darauf hin, dass sie dem Gott Quetzalcoatl (coatl = Schlange, quetzalli = grüne Feder) gewidmet wurde. Diese mysteriöse Gottheit wurde von vielen indianischen Völkern verehrt. Von 1931 bis 1956 wurde unter Leitung von Ignacio Marquina ein begehbares Tunnelsystem angelegt. Diese 8 Kilometer langen Tunnel wurden vor allem in das Innere der Pyramide gegraben, um die verschiedenen Ãœberbauungsschichten nachvollziehen zu können. Hierbei wurden mindestens fünf Bauphasen identifiziert, die in dem für Touristen zugänglichen Teil gut erkennbar sind. 1966 wurde damit begonnen Teile des Tempels wieder freizulegen. Heute kann man daher an der West- und Südseite die Pyramide wieder als solche begreifen. Es ist nicht abschließend geklärt, warum die Pyramide heute eher einem dicht bewucherten Berg gleicht als einem Bauwerk von menschlicher Hand. Einige Quellen berichten, dass Hernán Cortés sie zuschütten ließ und mit den Steinen einiger nahegelegenen kleineren Pyramiden die christliche Kirche „Santa Maria de los Remedios“ auf ihr errichten ließ. Die Reste der kleineren Pyramiden in der direkten Umgebung sind von der Kirche aus noch sichtbar. Andere Berichte sagen, dass bei Ankunft Cortés die Pyramide bereits nicht mehr als solche erkennbar war und er diese deshalb auch nicht zerstörte.

Cholula

only 6 km away from Puebla you find another World heritage site.....and the biggest (in volume) pyramide every built....but they built a church on top of the pyramide so you only can see parts of it...but it is still impressive...
so we went there this morning without breakfast by taxi (half an hour drive for 90 pesos....6 euros...incredible...and going by taxi is luxury here...), had a big desayuno (and again the "wrong" chocolate caliente) with a bunch of mexicans on the zocalo in the bright sunshine again before we explored the city....
next surprise....the most famous picture of the church can not be shot like this...


the volcanoes are far too far away .... even with the best weather conditions you need to do a photo collage to be able to get a picture like THIS....

only disappointment so far

and of course I immediately tried the famous chocolate caliente as the hot chocolate comes from Mexico.....what a disappointment.....it tastes like benco....

so at first I thought maybe they just gave you the touristic stuff and you need to go somewhere else....after 10 hot chocolates and everyone was the same I have given up that the original hot chocolate is smooth and thick and yummy like in Italy for example....but not to be unfair...it tastes more of vanilla and cinammon than a benco but still it is cacao and not hot chocolate....
ps but I do not give up...I still cannot believe that is it....

dinner with Dominik

and it really is wonderful having friends all over the world...this time it is Thomas who contacted an old friend of his and we already agreed back home to have dinner on our first evening....and as he is married to a mexican lady we could get a climpse of real Mexico already....
we of course opted for a real Mexican restaurant and were not disappointed at all....
there is like in every town a Fressstrasse....here it is called avenida Juarez....one restaurant after the other, one bar and one club in between (and of course here you do have a starbucks as well...but can you imagine- I have not been inside yet!!!!)

the restaurant we went to is called Mi ciudad (meine Stadt) and we had Sangria (but there must have been something different inside as I really felt dizzy just after half a glass...) and the typical chalupas (like tortillas but open and on top green or red spicy sauce) and then I had chilis filled with cheese, corn, shrimp and banados in bean sauce...very delicious....

after that we wanted to go into a bar but unfortunately Mme Mexico turned out to be a zicke and no bar was good enough for her....no comment...

but I would recommend
La Habana....cool music and cool location
The Prince....totally new and very in and very chic.......

sundowner at our penthouse terrace

and you will not believe it but our little hotel has a panorama elevator (dont ask its age....) which takes you up to the roofbar....a fully equipped lounge bar with stunning views of the city of Puebla awaits you.....and this is where we are now...sitting in the sunshine, reading and yes drinking tequila.....

UNESCO world heritage site

after our first day walking and driving around it comes natural to me that Puebla has been awarded World heritage site .....
this is an amazing place where they surely managed to preserve all the old colonial architecture...

lunch in Puebla


and another wonderful thing here is that in all the restaurants you can also eat at a table on your own balcony...you sit around the zocalo, the main square with a little balcony where there is nothing else than you table and enjoy mexican food and mojitos.....and yes all of this in the sunlight....

touribus through Puebla





as I could not sleep anyway.....no I dont feel jetlagged but I simply cant sleep when there is a bustling city outside my doorstep......so finally we went to have our first breakfast in Mexico.....and the waiter apologized that the desayuno today was typically mexican....so we started with nachos and guacemole and melted cheese and bean paste.....very delicious.
then we went to see the main sights....the tourists office (for information on the mountains....), the cathedral, the pedestrian zone and then we got on the touribus, which of course only does tours in Spanish so poor Thomas needed to trust my translation....
and the sun is shining and is has 23 degrees during daylight....(dont ask about temperatures at night.....freezing!)

Puebla is really really nice and what is best- no house excluding churches has more than 2 stories...so no skyline at all....
and till 10 am it is a really nice little quiet place which starts bustling only at 10 or even more so at night....

our hotel in Puebla

the flight was more than okay as the long flight from Frankfurt to Mexico City was totally overbooked so unfortunately ;-) they had to upgrade us to business class....which means....a bed.....food and drinks all the time ....and a lot of good videos....(so finally I got to see Eat Pray Love...but let me tell you the book is so much better....this definitely is a film you can live without whereas the book is cult for women like myself....;-)
so after 11h and 7 hours time difference we arrived in Mexico city ....immediately found everything including the bus de lujo (luxury bus) to Puebla.....
but instead of 2h we needed 4 hours as everyone was already on the road due to the biggest procession in Mexico for the Virgin de Guadeloupe which will take place on Dec 12th....
thank god I already called the hotel in Pueble (habla usted ingles? no.....so I already needed my Spanish.....) to tell them that we arrived in Mexico City and that they should kindly wait for us....
which fortunately they did....even when we arrived only at 1.30 am.......
and thank god the hotel looked exactly like in the internet....a real jewel...directly next to the cathedral so really really historic center.....and with such a nice interiour courtyard and christmas decoration everywhere...including a very nice blinking (this is very important here.......if it does not blink and shine it is no decoration.....)
so we settled into our room, took a shower and here we are in Puebla...the thirdlargest city in Mexico on 2000 m above sealevel.

Samstag, 11. Dezember 2010

Angekommen

hello dear homestayers,
we have finally arrived at Puebla a wonderful colourful city in Mexicos Central Highlands.....